Naoki Maeda: “I decided to dedicate my life to fish.”
In Japan, the fishmonger is not a secondary figure in the seafood chain. In some cases, he is the one who defines the real value of fish. Naoki Maeda, a fishmonger from the port city of Yaizu, represents one of the clearest examples of this philosophy.
Maeda is not known for selling rare species or luxury products. He is known for how he prepares fish. His work demonstrates that value does not come from price, size, or freshness alone, but from knowledge, technique, and respect.
The meaning of shitate
At the core of Maeda’s work lies the concept of shitate. This Japanese term does not mean filleting. It refers to the complete preparation of fish from the moment it is landed until it is ready to be cooked.
Shitate includes assessing the fish’s physiological condition, selecting the appropriate handling method, controlling stress, managing moisture, and determining how the fish should rest and mature. It is a holistic approach where preparation is more important than cutting.
Through shitate, the fishmonger becomes responsible for the future quality of the fish, not just its appearance.
Ikejime as stress control
One of the best-known techniques used by Maeda is ikejime. This method involves the immediate stop of the nervous system after capture, reducing suffering and preventing the release of stress that damages muscle tissue.
Ikejime is not about spectacle or tradition. It is a technical tool that preserves texture, delays deterioration, and improves flavour. By reducing stress at the moment of death, the fish enters the maturation process in a controlled and predictable way.
For Maeda, ikejime is not optional. It is a necessary step in respecting both the fish and the final consumer.
Dassui jime and controlled dehydration
Another fundamental technique in Maeda’s work is dassui jime. This process focuses on controlled dehydration, removing excess water from the flesh after death.
Too much water inside muscle fibres dilutes flavour and accelerates spoilage. Through dassui jime, moisture is reduced without drying the fish, resulting in denser texture, cleaner taste, and longer shelf life.
Value beyond price
Maeda often explains that a fish bought for 30 yen, roughly 0.20 dollars, can outperform a fish worth 10,000 yen, approximately 70 dollars, if it is treated correctly. Price alone does not define quality.
What matters is how the fish is handled, prepared, and matured. A cheap fish, such as mackerel, prepared with care, technique, and understanding, can offer greater eating quality than an expensive fish treated as a commodity.
Respect that starts at the dock
Every morning, before beginning his work, Maeda goes to the harbour to greet the fishers as they leave for sea. It is a sign of respect and gratitude towards those who face the ocean to bring back the catch.
For Maeda, the journey of the fish begins at that moment, not at the cutting board. The relationship between fisher and fishmonger is based on trust, recognition, and shared responsibility.
A lesson for the future of fish markets
Naoki Maeda’s work shows that improving seafood value does not necessarily require new species, new technologies, or higher prices. It requires skill, discipline, and respect along the supply chain.
In a world under pressure from overfishing and declining resources, the fishmonger can once again become a central figure. Not as a trader, but as a guardian of quality.
Repositioning the fishmonger at the heart of the system means rethinking fish markets as places of knowledge, care, and responsibility, where value is built step by step, starting from the sea.
Naoki Maeda: “I decided to dedicate my life to fish.”
